Anyone hoping to trek the Inca Trail in 2018 better start planning, as permits are about to be released – four months earlier than usual.

Until this year, the initial tranche of permits for travel were released in January of the same year and the rest in February, but for the first time the Ministry of Culture is releasing all permits for 2018 on 1 October 2017.

With only 500 permits available per day, tour operators are urging travellers to book the trek, which ends at the 550-year old Incan citadel of Machu Picchu, as soon as they can. “Tickets usually sell out almost immediately for the peak trekking months of April, May and August,” said Dan Clarke of RealWorld Holidays. “Five-hundred a day may sound like a lot but when take into account the permits required for the guides, cooks and any other members of the trek team, you can see how they can disappear very quickly indeed.”

Permits can only be obtained through an officially licensed company that operates the four-day trek; they can not be bought separately. The Classic Inca Trail is the most popular of all of specialist South American operator RealWorld’s trips.

Travellers who miss out on Inca Trail permits can still trek to Machu Picchu on an alternative route – the Salkantay trek for which no permit is needed. “On the Salkantay trek, you pass through small communities and farmsteads, and approach Machu Picchu from the other side. Instead of arriving at Inti Punku (the sun gate), you get a stunning panorama, free of human interference – no transport, no farms, no tourists,” said Laura Rendull-Dunn of tour operator Journey Latin America.

Machu Picchu is among the most iconic ancient sites in the world but has become a victim of its own popularity in recent years, with Unesco threatening to place it on its endangered list. Pressure to do something about overcrowding prompted the Peruvian government to introduce a new timed entry system earlier this year, with the aim of creating a more even distribution of visitors throughout the day and reducing queue times. However, the new system controversially allowed for an increase in the total number of visitors from 5,000 a day to nearly 6,000 – more than double the Unesco recommendation of 2,500.

Solo Travel: Tips For Travelling Alone

TRAVELLING by yourself can be liberating and self-indulgent in the best possible ways.

Some of my most treasured memories are from the times I set out on my own. It’s not just the fact that I could do whatever I wanted to do whenever I wanted to do it, it’s the way I got to know more about myself as I discovered new places.

That said going it alone does have its challenges, from not having anyone to wait in line or watch your bags while you pop to the bathroom, to no second opinions on the best way to tackle a public transport system. There are also times when you miss not being able to share some of the highs and lows of travel with a friendly face.

But for me the solo travel pros greatly outweigh the cons, and there are ways to make the experience easier and safer.

SLEEPING ALONE

I talk to empty hotel rooms a lot when I travel solo. Don’t worry it’s not behind closed doors, but I like to create the illusion that someone else is there with a casual ‘I’m back’ and ‘see you soon’ as I enter and leave. I also ask for two keys at check in for my imaginary friend and I.

The Australian Government’s Smartraveller website suggests female solo travellers should book and check in using a first initial and surname only with no Miss, Ms or Mrs, and it’s a good idea not to tell anyone where you’re staying if they know you’re by yourself.

If anyone else is within earshot when you are asked your room number at breakfast give your name instead, and always listen to your intuition.

If your room doesn’t feel safe when you check in, ask to change rooms or move to another hotel. If someone waiting for the same lift makes you feel uneasy, say you’re waiting for a friend and will get the next one.
Avoid a ground floor room if you can as they are the easiest to break into, and as so many hotel doors don’t have chains on them a simple rubber door wedge can help you sleep better at night.

GETTING AROUND

If you’re planning on getting a taxi from the airport ask the hotel how much it should be and then ask the taxi driver the same question before you get in so you’re not taken for the wrong sort of ride.

Sit in the back seat behind the driver and either make a call to someone to say you’re on your way or mention to the driver that your partner is waiting for you. If you opt for the train instead, avoid sitting in an empty carriage.

Jenny Gray, Product Manager Intrepid Travel says petty theft can happen regardless of where you travel so it’s best not to carry all of your cash and cards on you when you’re out and about.

“Keeping a reserve locked away in the hotel means you have a back-up plan should the worst happen. Make scans of important travel documents and email them to yourself, this will save hours of time in paperwork if anything does happen.”

Ask your hotel if there are any areas you should avoid before you go exploring, and if you ever do feel a little lost or uncertain, don’t show it. Walk with calm confidence and retrace your steps until you’re back in your comfort zone.

If you start to crave human interaction join a walking tour, shoot the breeze with a friendly barman, or Skype with someone you love back home.

And don’t be put off if you see a Sold Out sign on a show you want to see. Single seats can appear so ask and you may be happily surprised.

TABLE FOR ONE

Solomangarephobia is a fear of eating alone in public. Personally I’m quite happy taking myself out to dinner but if it makes you nervous there are some things you can do.

Bring along a book or magazine, take the time to write postcards or capture your travels in your journal, edit the photos in your phone or do a little social media update.

But don’t spend the whole time with your face in your phone or book. Really taste the food and take in the scene around you.

A counter seat or a seat at the bar can be a good option, but if you prefer a table don’t let the waiter stick you on the worst one in the corner just because you’re alone. Ask if you can sit at a table you like and if they refuse you can always move onto somewhere you’ll feel more welcome.

While bathroom breaks are easy if you’re in a nice restaurant and won’t lose your seat, if you’re in a café leave something like a book or scarf to show your seat is taken and tell a waiter or another customer you’ll be right back while always taking your valuables to the rest room with you.

CONSIDER A GROUP HOLIDAY

If your friends or family don’t want to travel to the same places you do but you’re not keen on going it alone then a group tour could be for you.

Greg Carter, co-founder of Latin America and Polar Specialist Chimu Adventures says apart from the social aspect of travelling with like-minded people, they give inexperienced solo travellers a sense of security and confidence.

“But even for the veteran traveller a group tour can be a great idea as it can give you access to regions that may be hard to visit independently.”

The Managing Director of Insight Vacations, Alexandra O’Connor says different tours are tailored for different travelling styles and so you should check what best suits your interests from city highlights to off the beaten track.

O’Connor says your Travel Director is like a 24 hour concierge and can give you all the tips you need before you do some exploring on your own.

“Listen to your Travel Director when they offer safety tips and areas to be mindful of (and) ensure you have their mobile number in case you’re running late or lost. But overall enjoy and take in all of your surroundings from the sounds to the scents and everything in between, some of the best experiences and memories are captured when you’re solo and can fully immerse yourself in your surroundings.”

While some group tours pair you up with someone of the same sex so you can save money on a single room, others waive single supplements altogether.

There are also companies like Monograms that mix the flexibility of travelling by yourself with the support found on a guided holiday.

Monograms’ Chris Fundell says their holidays include a choice of hotels, transportation and transfers, but guests are free to explore at their own pace.

“They include a selection of special activities and guided sightseeing as well as the services of a Monograms Local Host to offer advice and assist with planning additional excursions. The packages also give travellers the option of VIP access to popular tourist attractions, a perk that is usually only available to larger groups.”

CHOOSE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE

When it comes to deciding on a destination there are some countries that are easier for solo travellers than others.

Places like the UK, USA and Canada offer a mix of the new and exciting with the familiar and comforting as you speak the same language and are familiar with most of the customs, and you can easily meet fellow solo travellers in popular tourist spots throughout Europe and Asia.

On The Go Tours’ Carl Cross says solo travel can be daunting in places like Russia and in parts of Africa where overland travel is next to impossible without a local guide.

“Also, when touring overland across several borders, it can be much safer and more efficient to travel with a tour company in certain parts of the world. In some countries, solo female travel is not advised, often due to cultural considerations, so a tour group in these places is an ideal solution.”

No matter where you decide to go, make sure you do your research beforehand.

“Read and subscribe to the travel advice for the countries you plan to visit (and) talk to friends, relatives and colleagues who have travelled to the places you plan to visit.” A spokesperson from the Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade says. “Remember that careful planning before you leave is essential to help you choose a destination where you’ll feel safe and comfortable, and be prepared for any issues you might face.”

Five Tips To Reduce Food Wastage

South Africa's first Michelin Star chef Jan Hendrik van der Westhuizen says fruit and vegetables are the most common foods people waste because they perish so easily.
He says: "With expensive products like meat or fish, before they have a chance to expire, the average consumer sees its value and knows to freeze it and hopefully use it at a later stage. The first line of defence against fresh produce wastage is not to overbuy. What often happens is that we buy far more fresh produce than we can realistically consume before it perishes, and half of it ends up in the bin or forgotten about in the bottom of the fridge."

Plan ahead

Find fifteen minutes at the weekend to work out a weekday menu for the upcoming week, considering which ingredients you can use for multiple dishes. For instance, the tomatoes you didn’t use in your salad today can make a delicious relish tomorrow.

Adopt a shop-smart mindset. Make a shopping list and be realistic about what you need – checking, of course, what you already have in your fridge before popping down to the shops.

Use everything

Get a bit creative. Embrace #LeftoverMondays. Instead of throwing the last three bananas out, make banana bread. And if you’re watching your waistline, give it to someone who needs it.

Another culprit in the food waste quagmire is the best before date. Treat it like a guideline, not a matter of fact. Use-by dates refer only to the quality of food – not its safety. Trust your senses – they are there for a reason. In other words, taste before you waste.

Take stock of the food you have in your home and adopt a new rule of thumb: use what spoils first.

Check your portions

Over preparing is a common issue throughout the industrialised world, but as South Africans, the notion of Die tafels moet kreun (an old Afrikaans adage referring to festive tables set with an abundance of food) is better reserved for special occasions than for the norm.

It is speculated that mainstream restaurant culture is largely to blame here and it has affected our sense of value. The larger the portion, the better the value for money. But in the process, we’ve lost the ability to gauge how much we actually need. Remember, your stomach is only about the size of your fist.

Make a mind switch – let value centre on the quality of the ingredients. Focus more on the smell, the taste and the joyful experience of eating the food you make and less on the amount you ingest.

Store it well

You’ll be surprised to learn what fruits and vegetables prefer to be stored at room temperature and not in the fridge. And if you can clear some fridge space, storing your leftovers for tomorrow’s lunch will become less of a problem.

Fridge clutter feeds a dangerous tendency of out of sight, out of mind. And it makes it difficult to know what you have to work with.

Donate what you don’t use

Studies show that when people give to charities, it activates pleasure centres in the brain connected to trust and a sense of belonging, which are responsible for that “warm glow” feeling.

Inevitably, we don’t always use all the food we buy. In a country with such a big divide between the haves and the have nots, why not find out where your local food banks are and donate what you don’t consume? Or start a local community dedicated to feeding the less privileged on a Saturday morning.

A Trip To King’s Landing, Minus The Dragons And The Lannisters

Croatia’s coastal city, Dubrovnik, therefore, became a natural destination in my travel wish list which is doubled as King’s Landing in GoT. Many scenes of the show have been filmed in this picturesque city.

I landed in Dubrovnik on an extremely rainy morning and checked into an all-girls hostel. Since the larger part of my stay was in the neighbouring budget friendly Bosnia, I had expected Croatia to be a money-friendly place as well. However, I was proven wrong. Croatia is relatively more expensive than other parts of Europe as a decent dorm at a hostel costs up to €20-25 per night, which is extremely high compared to other tourist destinations such as Rome and Barcelona. ‘Tourist staple food’ pizzas are about €6 and the superstores are dearer than in the United Kingdom.

Croatian people, however, are quite friendly and helpful, especially if you try to communicate with them in Croatian. They are extremely generous and it almost appears that the less people have, the more they tend to give. I think that they complement their country’s stunning scenery in the truest sense.

Croatian food can be distinguished on the basis of its regions, that is, Dalmatian food and Zagreb food. My favourites included strukli, a delicious pastry filled with cottage cheese and sour cream boiled or baked in the oven, and brudet (brujet, brodet) which is a fish stew flavoured with chilli pepper. Another dish worth trying is the oily fish that represents an essence of the Dalmatian diet. Sardines, mackerels, anchovies, Mediterranean sand smelt, tuna and bonito are also delicious and a common staple around Croatian homes.

Since Croatian islands and GoT-famed Dubrovnik attract a large number of wealthy European tourists all year round, it has niched itself as an exotic holiday destination.

GoT’s King’s Landing, Dubrovnik, was once a trade capital of the Balkans. During the 16th century, it boasted the largest merchant naval fleet in the world with more than 50 consulates in the world. Dubrovnik was a city of rich merchant villas and wealthy sailor fleets but it has lost its formal glory ever since.

Today, most of the places worth seeing in Dubrovnik are within its ‘pedestrian only’ walled town. This town was declared as a United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) heritage site in 1979 and is dotted with beautiful Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture.

I braced the rain with an umbrella and ventured into the old town, and to be honest, it looked like the mall road of Murree at first glance. It is crammed with souvenir shops, museums, empty villa-museums, eateries, tour operators, musicians and dancers. It really pours ice cold water over one’s fantasy of a breath-taking perception of Dubrovnik, until one climbs the town walls and takes a detour around the town.

The walk on the Dubrovnik Wall is one of the most beautiful experiences in Croatia. It’s a beautiful longish walk over the azure waters of the Adriatic Sea, where the city and sea below actually looks like a vision of King’s Landing, right out of GoT.

During the walk, one passes through the east entrance to the old town Dubrovnik, namely the 14th century ‘Ploče Gate’, which was the Red Keep gate in GoT. Cersei Lannister passed over this same bridge and entered the Red Keep during her walk of shame.

Just across Dubrovik’s old town square is the 16th century ‘Sponza Palace’, where wonderful arrays of painting exhibitions take place regularly. During my visit, I came across a painting exhibition about atrocities of the Bosnian war. Though Croatia has fared economically better than its Balkan neighbours after the Bosnian war, emotional battle scars are still visible through war monuments all around Dubrovnik.

Dubrovnik has a few beaches just outside its city limits that are more laid back and quieter, with Lapad beach being one of them. Here I was able to relax and sip tea while gazing into the sea while snorkelers dive into the water every now and then.

My next stop was the coastal city of Split for a further detour to the island of Brac, which is famous for its olive oil. This oil is a must try for any visitor who plans to visit the island. Being one of the biggest islands in Croatia, it is a little inconvenient to get around the island considering the lack of conveyance. Even though buses move around regularly, I was about to miss the bus to the docks and my subsequent flight out of Split the next day. Luckily enough, my constant waving caught the eye of the driver of the last outgoing bus, who in a show of humanity for a solo traveller, stopped outside his bus route and took me to the dock. Brac, however, did not leave much of an impression on me and I could easily skip it the next time I visit Croatia.

Split was an impressive city with a gorgeous seafood market just near its harbour. Split is a heaven for any seafood lover and since I am one, I devoured a sumptuous breakfast of sardines and other small fish at one of the small local inns.

Roman ruins of the Diocletian Palace remains one of the most interesting features of Split, with its snake-like labyrinth of streets, packed with shops, people and Roman warriors. You find Roman warrior actors around the palace who at a nominal fee will pose with you or even let you pretend to be one.

The visit to Split marked the end of my Croatian tour and so I bid my farewell to King’s Landing and headed towards other destinations.

For anyone who is a GoT fan, I highly recommend visiting Dubrovnik. It is time and money well-spent.

Rashida Jones Shares Her Tips for Making the Most of Every Journey

Most seasoned travelers are a wealth of hard-earned travel tips, and Rashida Jones is no exception. The actress, who is as beloved for her down-to-earth persona as she is for her on-screen roles, can rattle off a slew of logical advice with the best of them. “Somebody once told me that when you get to the place you’re going, either take a bath or try to find an ocean and jump in,” she says when explaining her jet lag cure. Or, when pondering the age-old quandary of whether to check a bag: “Try not to check luggage if you’re on a short enough trip. You’re always better off just having your things with you.”

But like every seasoned traveler, Jones also has her share of travel horror stories. “I was traveling for work with my writing partner, on a trip through Italy—nine cities in eight days—ending in London,” she recounts. “That crazy Icelandic volcano hit and grounded most of the flights in Europe. So we took the last train out of London on a Sunday night, headed to Paris. It took us seven hours to find a rental car in Paris. We then drove through the night to Madrid, where we got lost, and ended up running through the airport to catch our flight to Dallas—and landed just in time to catch our connection to L.A. Forty hours door to door.”

With all that experience under her belt, it’s no surprise that cult-favorite luggage brand Away would tap Jones to partner on a collection of totes, packing cubes, and suitcases in a trio of pretty pastel shades. “We’ve always been huge fans of Rashida’s,” says Away’s Jen Rubio. “Aside from being funny, smart, and warm, she’s an expert traveler with an incredible eye for design.” For her part, Jones agrees that the collab was a no-brainer: “I love the idea of being able to bring some magic into something banal. Anybody that’s been to a major international airport in the last five years can attest to the fact that it can be really grueling to travel. I look for places to find whimsy so that I don’t crumble under the pressure of traveling.”

Below, Jones shares some more of her best travel secrets exclusively with Vogue.

Favorite travel destination:

I adore Tokyo. It is so dense and complex and whimsical. My travel tip in Tokyo is just pick a few areas…Aoyama, Shibuya, Shinjuku Park . . . and just get lost. Try to go during cherry blossom season, it is magic.

The key to making the most of any trip:

Try your best to meet a local . . . either a friend of a friend or even a fellow travel guide, someone nice and safe. I love to see a city for what it really is, not for how tourists see it. You can only do that if you’re with someone who lives there. I also love to take a run in a new city. It’s a great way to wander and cover a lot of ground without looking like a lost tourist!

Packing style:

I have become an underpacker as I’ve gotten older. I like to make the most of my trip, and lugging stuff around and stressing over what to wear takes away from that.

Best packing tip:

I do a combo of rolling and flat. I used to think rolling was the best, but I only do it for durable, less wrinkly fabrics like thick cottons and cashmere. I lay jackets flat on top.

Never-forgets:

A pair of sneakers and a mini travel candle.

Dream destination:

I would love to go to New Zealand next. I’m increasingly attracted to being in expansive, vast, untouched nature. It’s humbling and clarifying.

Solo travel secret:

I used to love traveling alone. It felt so romantic and sometimes melancholy, which is great for writing. It was a perfect time for me to be introspective. But now because I’ve traveled so much, I get a bit sick of it. I usually create some itinerary of shows and movies to watch, books and magazines to read, and work to finish so that I know I’ll feel some combination of fulfilled and still curious by the end of the journey.